Patagonia Speed Ascent versus R2 and a Patagonia hardshell

The Patagonia Speed Ascent jacket is their high end softshell for cold conditions.  It has R2 fabric as the liner, and a polyester shell that is wind and water resistant.  It also has a hood.

Speed Ascent jacket is quoted as being 28 ounces.

To get the corresponding system in hardshell means an R2 jacket plus a hardshell.

R2 jacket is 14.1 ounces and has no hood.

The Stretch Element hardshell jacket is 19.6 ounces.

The Rain Shadow hardshell jacket is lighter at 13 ounces.

At best, softshell is over a quarter pound lighter (28 ounces versus 33.7 ounces), at worst, it is equivalent (28 ounces versus 27.1 ounces plus a fleece hat to make up for the lack of hood).

Marmot Driclime Windshirt versus the Ion Windshirt plus a baselayer shirt

On the other end of the spectrum from the Speed Ascent jacket is Marmot’s Driclime softshell.  This is a very light polyester shelled jacket with 2.7 oz/yard lining.

Driclime windshirt is quoted as being 11 ounces.

To get an equivalent product, we need a light baselayer and a light shell.

The Ion windshirt is 5 ounces, and it has an attached hood.

A Marmot lightweight crewneck base layer shirt is 6 ounces.

In this case, the edge goes to the Ion windshirt plus baselayer as the Ion has a hood that adds some weight.  (11 ounces versus 11 ounces).

Conclusion

This quick comparison shows that softshell is roughly equivalent to a similar system of hardshell plus insulation.  The weight argument doesn’t hold.

One of the key differences between hardshell and softshell is the breathability/waterproof tradeoff.  I’ll not debate that here, as different people want different things.  Some prefer the most breathable layers they can get as long as they are wind resistant and shed some water.  Others want absolute waterproof layers and don’t worry about breathability.

Fill Power

As I covered before, fill power is the metric for down quality.  Fill power multiplied by ounces of fill gives the total volume of down fill.  I cite the total volume of down fill in my chart.

Table Data

There are more sleeping bags in this list.  I’ve chosen to simply highlight the three best in each category using italics.  Thus, the three lightest weight bags, the three most inexpensive bags, and the three highest fill volume bags will each be in italics.

Means and standard deviations have been calculated, and are reported at the bottom of the chart.

The Table

As always, the data is compiled from the manufacturers.

Efficiency Update

Just like before, the efficiency factor is calculated such that a lower number is better.  I’ve sorted the chart on that efficiency factor, putting the most efficient at the top.

I put a lot more data into the spreadsheet and I discovered something interesting.  For the most part, smaller pads have a slight advantage.  However, the Exped Downmats and Synmats seem to favor the larger mats.  Perhaps this is because of the valve and pump weight being spread over more surface area.

I also multiplied the original efficiency factor by 1000 to make it easier to read.  This doesn’t actually have any effect on the factor because it is uniformly applied to the original factor.  It simply changes the decimal position.

I plotted the efficiency curve and noticed that it slowly increases and then suddenly goes up quite rapidly.  It looks like the main inflection point occurs somewhere between 6 and 8.

Efficiency is not the only thing that is important though.  One of the big things I look for is how small I can pack the pad.

Packed Size

I really don’t like having things hanging off my backpack.  The streamlined shape of most internal frame packs is ruined when a big pad is strapped to it.  This causes it get snagged on tree branches and brush.  For me, this means I need a very small package that can fit inside my pack.

However, others do use their pads as a frame in ultralight packs.  These folks won’t necessarily care about packed volume as much as the structure and rigidity of the pad when it is in the back of the pack acting as a framesheet.

For this reason, I’ve not tried to create a more unified factor that includes the packed volume of the pad.  Users will have to decide for themselves what is important.

Total Picture

To give a complete picture of these pads, I’ve included the MSRP per the manufacturer or distributor, or if that was unavailable, I used information from REI to fill in the gaps.

Despite being included in the efficiency factor, I’ve included R-value and weight in the chart.

This way you can see better whether a pad fits your needs in terms of weight, warmth, efficiency, packed volume, and cost in USD.

Here is the updated chart:

Avalanches really have a lot of compressive force.  The snow gets packed very densely, requiring a burly shovel to dig out anyone that is trapped.  For this reason, I consider any shovel without a metal blade to be dangerous in avalanche terrain.

Another key feature is a shaft and handle that is comfortable enough for use to dig rapidly and furiously in avalanche rubble.  I’m a tall guy, so I prefer a longer shaft.  In addition, my hands are large and the way I prefer to dig, I like a D handle as opposed to a T handle.

The D handle also provides a convenient location to tie a sling.  I like shovel blades that have holes in them to allow it to be slung as a deadman in an emergency.

I strongly recommend not using your shovel as a tent anchor.  This makes it difficult to retrieve it to dig out your tent during a snow storm.  In addition, if you have set up a base camp, you need your shovel while you head up the slope.

I like using the Voile Telepro.  It is comfortable, has a really durable aluminum blade, and allows me to really move a lot of snow efficiently.  The blade also detaches easily from the shaft, which makes life easier when trying to dig out the interior of a snow cave.

You can get it at Mountain Gear and REI .

I had been using old camouflage pants for bushwhacking for a while, but found the 5.11 Taclite pants.  They are a cotton/poly blend fabric, with lots of pockets.  I’m a big fan of the bigger thigh pockets that hold small items easily; compasses, GPS, snacks, etc.

The benefit of the cotton/poly fabric is that they are durable while remaining relatively light.  The downside is that it will get wet and not dry as easily as a lightweight nylon fabric.  In warm weather, this isn’t that much of a concern.  I wouldn’t use these pants in weather where I was concerned with hypothermia.

I’ve not used these pants for rock climbing, as I bought them specifically for bushwhacking, so I can’t speak to durability against rock, nor the design of the pockets for wearing a harness.

Another interesting feature of these pants is that they have double layer knees.  This, in and of itself, is a great feature as it adds substantially to the durability.  There is a small slot in the knees that you can slide a neoprene knee pad into.  If you like to take photos like I do, kneeling a lot is common.  In addition, they help pad the leg against the brush and thorns.  However, they really make the pants much hotter in warm weather.

So, in short, these are a great pair of pants for off trail use.

I bought another pair of convertible pants because I really like the idea of pants and shorts all in one.  I bought the Marmot Cruz convertible pants.  These pants also come in different lengths, which is handy as I’m tall.

They are made of a very light nylon material that has been durable to this point.  I have noticed something strange though.  It seems that when I wear my wool socks, the pants stick to my shins.  I think maybe it is a static electricity effect.  It seems to go away once the pants get dirty and muddy.

The pockets aren’t very good on these pants.  There is one zippered thigh pocket that I end up using for everything I would keep in the normal slash pockets.  The normal pockets are shallow and items seem to fall out readily.

The pants don’t come with an integral belt, which at this price point, I expect a nice thin integral belt that is comfortable under a pack waist belt as well as under a harness.

Speaking of harnesses, I really do find these pants to be comfortable while wearing a climbing harness.  However, the pockets still leave something to be desired while wearing a harness.

If they had better pockets, and a low profile integral belt, they would be ideal in my opinion.  They are good, but for the 68 USD price tag, I expect great for a pair of nylon convertible trail pants.

These pants are available at Summit Hut and Mountain Gear

I won't win awards for my tailoring

The North Face Paramount pants zip off into shorts, are made of a quick drying and thick nylon fabric that looks good even after wearing them for days on end.  Dirt doesn’t show easily.  I figured I had a winner.

However, the pockets are place over the top of the thigh, rather than on the sides.  In addition, they aren’t bellows pockets like most cargo pants.  This made it difficult to store anything and access it while seated (for example during a flight).

Second, my pair didn’t last very long.  In fact, I got 1 two-week long trip out of them before I split the seam in the seat.  I’ve never actually had a seam rip on an outdoors garment before.  I’ve torn holes, I’ve abraded through cloth, but I’ve never had a seam blow out.  So, this was a surprise.

After repairing the split (this is why a repair kit is a good idea), I still use the pants, but no longer for travel.  They are strictly trail use now.

From The North Face and for the price, I expected a lot more from these pants.

I usually choose to wear light and fast boots when climbing.  The downside is that they can’t be made as warm and insulated as heavy double plastic boots.  I’ll take every extra bit of insulation I can get.

The Superfeet REDhot insoles are made for winter use, and they have some insulation, plus a reflective bottom.  I have used these on glaciers and frozen rock, and even while wearing crampons, I have not had problems with cold soles.

I have wide feet, so it was nice to finally find some insoles that were wider.  These cover the whole interior of my boots and keep my feet comfortable as well.  The arches are somewhat high, but I find them quite supportive for long days, especially with a heavy backpack loading my feet.  Durability has been good.

If you have cold feet in the winter, I’d really recommend trying the Superfeet REDhot insoles.  You can get them at REI

A selection of my favorite handwear for severe conditions

I am very serious about keeping my hands warm and happy.  I’ve gone my whole life without frostbite, and I fully intend to maintain that record.  Here are some of the things I use to keep my hands happy.

First, are the light gloves.  These are the fair weather, or high dexterity task gloves.  I like fleece with a windproof laminate.  They are surprisingly warm and comfortable, but don’t count on them for a second in wet conditions.  They will soak through.  Carry a few pair of these types of gloves so that you always have dry ones handy.  I use mine for tasks like setting up a tent or fixing dinner.  I keep mine in my pockets while active so that I can slip out of a mitten and into a glove if I need to readjust a binding or some other task that is too intricate for clumsy mittens.  My personal favorite gloves over the years are the Black Diamond Windweight gloves .

Next, a good pair of work gloves are necessary.  These are the gloves with thick leather palms for handling poles, ice tools, ropes, and so on.  These are the gloves that get used and abused and destroyed rapidly from all the use.  In warm weather, like spring when it can be easily above freezing during the day, a great solution is to go to any hardware store and buy some all leather work gloves for 10 dollars and rub them with neatsfoot oil to waterproof and soften them really well.  But, for cold weather, something more substantial is necessary.  I want good leather palms, and a high gauntlet to keep my wrists warm.  It also helps to have knuckle padding.  My personal favorites are the now discontinued Black Diamond Ice glove.  Black Diamond has a new version that they call the Enforcer Glove.

Finally, big and warm mittens are like sleeping bags for your hands.  Definitely do not skimp on the mittens.  Durable palms, and lots of puffy insulation will keep your fingers intact and warm.  I don’t wear liner gloves inside my mittens because that defeats the idea behind mittens.  I want the blood flow in each finger helping to keep the other fingers warm.  It is nearly impossible to do anything in proper mittens.  Opening my water bottle, and maintaining a grip on a ski pole or ice axe is about all I plan to do in mittens.

Mittens are especially important if you have to wear a backpack.  The straps seem to always reduce blood flow to the hands and arms.  Keep that in mind while traveling, and make sure your fingers are always getting blood flow.  Stop and shake some fresh blood into your hands on occasion.  I like to use Expedition Mittensfrom Marmot.  These are packed full of insulation and are lined with a soft wicking layer to keep hands dry.

I have a big pile of gloves and mittens I’ve accumulated over the years.  I’ve tried most combinations I can think of, and this is what works well for me.  Let me know what works for you.

I have spent a lot of time in the cold working out this method for layering, that allows for changing weather conditions, and changing activity levels.  I’ll separate the approach by torso and legs.

Here is a summary of the layers.

Torso

1. Base layer
2. Wind layer
3. Light insulation
4. Shell
5. Belay jacket (heavy insulation)

Legs

1. Base layer
2. Softshell
3. Belay pants

Base layer

The base layer is the start of the layering system.  It should fit snugly without feeling constricting, as the main purpose of the base layer is to keep your skin dry.  All your sweat should be wicked away from your skin to the outer layers where it can evaporate.

A common question is whether to use wool or synthetic base layers.  High quality merino wool base layers are available.  They are comfortable and good for some conditions.  Synthetics, I find, work better on extended trips.  I reviewed the wool versus synthetic debate previously.

Base layers come in a variety of weights, usually “lightweight”, “midweight”, and “heavy weight”. Sometimes, there is even an extra heavy weight.  For the most part, I stick with lightweight and midweight baselayers.  For the same conditions, I generally tolerate a heavier base layer on my legs than on my torso.  For example, I generally will wear a lightweight shirt, while choosing midweight for my legs.

Wind layer

No insulation on the back where a pack provides all the insulation you need. . . great design.

The next layer for the torso is the wind layer. The wind layer should be a very light wind shell, that is extremely breathable.  There really is no need for any waterproofing.  In fact, I don’t reapply (DWR) to my wind shells, as I have found they breathe more easily after a few washes.

The idea behind the wind layer is to allow all that perspiration to pass through, and then evaporate without chilling your core.  For this reason, I personally prefer a vest, as my arms seem to do just fine without a wind layer, so I see no need for the extra weight and reduced mobility of sleeves.

I reviewed the Marmot Driclime vest.

Light insulation

The purpose of the light insulation layer is purely to keep you comfortable (meaning slightly cool) while you are moving.  Carrying a pack, climbing, preparing camp, etc are all hard work and lots of insulation just isn’t necessary.

I have a variety of light fleece sweaters that I use depending on the overall expected conditions.  If temperatures will be above 0F much of the day, I’ll use a 100 weight fleece sweater or pullover if I need it.  Close to 32F, I am usually only wearing my base layer and my wind layer.  Below 0F, a 200 weight fleece sweater, usually fill zip with a hood is a good option.  For consistently severe cold, there are other options that can be lighter than fleece, such as thin synthetic insulated sweaters.  I tend not to use down for such a piece as it will get wet from sweat.  I also avoid the use of wool sweaters unless it is only a day hike.

Shell for the Torso

A shell jacket is still useful in extreme cold weather, however, it needs to be highly breathable.  Being waterproof is less of a necessity the colder the temperatures.  The likelihood of encountering liquid water is very low.  Wind resistance is critically important, as wide open and cold places tend to have very strong winds. Even light shells with DWR shed snowfall well enough.

I avoid the high cost waterproof breathable hard shells because my shell is going to get abused against rock, and there is a lot of risk of damage from ice tools, ice screws, and other sharp implements common in the cold.  And, as I mentioned, waterproofing isn’t a critical quality of a good extreme cold weather shell.

I’ve used the Marmot Precip jacket for years now in various forms.  It is a nice, light, and inexpensive option for a shell.

Belay jacket and pants

Leukotape patch on my DAS

The belay jacket and pants are common for winter climbing and mountaineering.  The idea is to have heavy insulation for periods without much movement.  These should be thick puffy garments full of synthetic insulation, as they go on over the top of all the sweaty layers from the day.

For the legs, full side zips are important so that boots do not need to be removed.  These garments must be sized to fit over the top of all of the other layers.

I discussed the belay jacket concept more thoroughly in the past, including my preference for the Patagonia DAS Parka and Patagonia Micro puff pants

Softshell for the legs

On my legs, I can tolerate one system much more easily because my legs aren’t full of critical organs that need to be closely temperature regulated.  In addition, I’m often wearing a climbing harness which precludes the ability to quickly, easily, and safely add or remove layers as conditions change.  These reasons lead to softshell being a more ideal system for the legs.

Softshell is suitable for a wide variety of conditions, more so than the traditional 3 layer system.  It is a light, breathable, and comfortable system.

I reviewed my favorite softshell pants, the Patagonia Mixmasters in the past.

Conclusion

The 5 layer approach for the torso, of base, wind, light insulation, light shell, and belay jacket, as well as the 3 layer approach for the legs of base, softshell, and belay pants works very well in a wide range of extreme cold weather and severe conditions.  I’ve used and abused this system for quite a while now, and have no reservations relying on it to keep me safe and comfortable in the mountains.

For more information about cold weather clothing choices, Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, Fast, and High by Mark Twight is a very good resource.

For more information about sleeping in the cold, see my article about cold weather sleep systems.

I hope this helps.  Let me know!

I’ll talk about a few important quantifiable considerations, and leave the qualitative decisions to you.

Fit is a qualitative factor that should be considered carefully for example.  For example, a snug fitting bag will have less space to heat and keep warm, will likely be lighter weight, but many people may feel constricted and uncomfortable.

Three of the main quantitative measures for down sleeping bags include the weight, the down, and the price.  I’ll cover those.

Fill Power

Fill power is an important concept when discussing down sleeping bags.  Fill power is a measure for the quality of down.  It is expressed in cubic inches per ounce of down.  High quality down fills more volume per ounce than low quality down.  This means for a given volume of sleeping bag loft, higher quality down will weigh less.  An important consideration.

What I’ve done to compare the sleeping bags is to multiply the weight of down fill (in ounces) by the fill power of down used.  This gives a standard “volume” of down that can be used to compare straight across.  Simply looking at weight of fill can mislead you.

Bags Included in the List

I included bags rated from –15F to –25F.  I also stuck with “regular” length bags, although two bags stood out as a bit strange to me.  The Montbell bag only fits to 5’10”, and the Mountain Hardwear bag fits to 6’6” in the regular size.  All of the other bags have a 6’0” fit for regular.  Keep this in mind when comparing the bags.  If you are larger or smaller, perhaps one of these bags would be a better match for your needs.

Table Data

I’ve used the stoplight system of red, yellow, and green to highlight the low, middle, and best three in each category respectively.  So, the heaviest three bags will be red, the three most expensive will be red, and the three with the least fill volume will be red.

I also calculated the mean and standard deviation for each of the three columns.

The Table

All information is from the manufacturers.

I personally own the Marmot Col EQ and reviewed it.  I’m quite happy with it, despite it being one of the heavier bags on the list.  It is quite warm and has several features I like.

I hope this chart helps you pick a cold weather bag.  Let me know if you liked it, and would like to see a similar compilation for bags in another temperature range.

For sleeping pads, what I wanted to do was compare how warm (the R-value) with the weight of the sleeping pad.  This way, the most efficient pad could be chosen.

However, one thing I quickly realized was that dimensions were different for the sleeping pads.  There are short pads, long pads, wide pads, and mummy tapered pads.  This means an objective comparison of weight is useless without considering how the pad measures.

For this reason, I chose to exclude any mummy tapered pads, as I did not want to calculate their area without physically possessing them to perform measurements.  I focused on “regular” sized pads to get them as similar as possible, and then calculated the surface area.  This was necessary even with the regular sized pads, as the Exped mats were 2” shorter than the other mats, potentially giving them an unfair weight advantage.

Simple division gives us a measurement of how much each square inch of surface area weighs.  Another round of division gives us a measure of the warmth of each surface area per weight unit.

I then sorted on the weight/area/R measure to put the most efficient pad at the top of the chart.  This is the most objective way to evaluate sleeping pads.  Subjective measures like comfort, or additional desired features are up to you, the reader, to determine for yourself.

If you want to see the full version of the spreadsheet, click here for it in PDF format.

One of the surprises was just how efficiently warm the Ridgerest pad turned out.  It is second only to the Downmat 9 and it is more efficient than the Downmat 7!  That is truly impressive.  I know I’ll be keeping a Ridgerest around for any times I need to go really light but don’t need the absolute warmth of my Downmat 9.

Full disclosure: all measurements are from manufacturers web sites, and costs were either MSRP as per the manufacturer, or the price listed at the REI website. if an MSRP was not listed on the manufacturer web site.

I have an Exped Downmat 9 and reviewed it here.

I hope this little chart helps you make decisions regarding sleeping pads.  I’d appreciate any thoughts, questions, or feedback in the comments section.

You can find an updated chart I made with more sleeping pads and information here.

I prefer a vest for my wind layer because I’m more concerned with protecting my torso from heat loss.  My arms do just fine without extra wind protection.  The sleeveless design also allows venting from the armpits without the weight of pit zips.  My preference for vests greatly limits the options, most manufacturers produce wind jackets.  I’m not very good at sewing, so I hesitate to buy a jacket and cut off the sleeves.

The Driclime vest from Marmot is a well thought out wind layer.  Not only does it help block wind, but it has a little bit of insulation.  The key is, they only put the insulation where it matters.  When wearing a pack, the back is very insulated by the backpack.  Extra insulation there is a waste.  Marmot chose to leave the back panel free of insulation.  This saves some weight and keeps the insulation where it matters.

No insulation on the back where a pack provides all the insulation you need. . . great design.

Overall, this is my favorite cold weather wind layer.  Once the temperatures are below freezing, I live in a base layer shirt and my Driclime vest, rarely taking it off.

Synthetic

Synthetic baselayers are incredibly efficient at moisture transport.  They don’t absorb the moisture which means they dry rapidly, although, they can dry too rapidly, inducing a chilly feeling in windy conditions.

Synthetic baselayers retain their shape, no matter how wet and abused they get.  No amount of rough handling or days of wear seem to change a synthetic baselayer.

Synthetic baselayers (well, most all synthetics really) can trap odors and get really smelly after a few days of use.  On solo trips, this really doesn’t matter, but when sharing a tent with a partner. . .

Wool

Despite the itchy association I have due to cheap woolen garments from my childhood, wool baselayers are very comfortable.  The wool used in baselayers is high quality, and much like a quality business suit, the wool is soft and luxurious feeling, rather than rough and scratchy.

However, wool, like most natural fibers, holds moisture.  It gets heavy when wet, and can be very slow to dry.  However, I often find wool still feels comfortable even when wet.

Wool stretches and loses shape.  When wool gets wet, this happens quite quickly, in my experience.  The areas I notice it first are in the knees and elbows, where lots of motion tends to stretch out the garments.  I prefer a snug fit to my baselayers so that they wick the moisture off of my skin rapidly.  As wool loses shape, it becomes less efficient at wicking moisture.  However, washing and dry the wool seems to restore the original shape.

Wool doesn’t absorb odors as easily as synthetics.  This is a huge positive when you want to smell somewhat presentable.

What do I use and when?

For single day outings, such as a hike or a day of climbing, I prefer the comfort and odor free properties of wool.  I prefer something like Icebreaker Bodyfit 200.  This is a good general weight for cold weather activities, and is quite comfortable.

If I’ll be out more than one day, for backpacking, mountaineering, etc, I switch to synthetics.  I like to go lightweight, and wet wool is not light.  I don’t carry spare baselayers to change into when one set gets wet, so synthetics rule on long trips.

For my legs, I really like Patagonia Capilene 2.  For my torso, I like a light baselayer with a zipneck so that I can adjust according to the conditions, like the Marmot Lightweight Zip Neck.

Final thought

For climbing use, I strongly recommend choosing lighter colors for baselayers.  It can be brutally sunny at altitude, or on a glacier, and having a light color to reflect that sunlight can help keep you cooler.  Dark colors can feel very hot very fast under those conditions.  Grey is a good color as it is light enough to feel cool, yet dark enough to not easily show how dirty it really is.

Insulation inside the Mixmaster softshell pants.

The better solution is one pair of pants that do everything and handle a wide range of conditions.  The reality is in freezing conditions, there just isn’t that much water to worry about, so claims of waterproof pants being a necessity are overblown.  Breathability and wind blocking ability are the real keys.

My favorite cold conditions softshell pants are the Patagonia Mixmasters.  I’ve used mine all over the Andes to good effect.  These have a very durable face material that has stood up to granite quite well.  Any holes in the outer material are easy to fix with a dab of Seam Grip to stop unraveling, no special patches necessary.  The cut is athletic and the material is stretchy and soft, making these some of the easiest pants to climb in that I’ve ever found.  The insulation is just right for a wide range of temperatures.  I find I don’t even need to wear a baselayer under these pants until it is constantly below zero.

Patagonia Mixmaster pants pocket with Seam Grip repair.

A key criticism I hear about softshell is how long it takes to dry.  What I have found after soaking my pants on river crossings is that I continue to stay warm and comfortable even though the pants are wet.  I can remove them, squeeze out as much moisture as possible, and then continue on, letting my body heat dry them.

Another nice feature is the cuff design of these pants.  I rarely use gaiters anymore.  The cuffs seal well around my boots, and there are two loops of webbing in the cuff.  I lace some tent shock cord through the webbing loops and run that under my boots to hold the pants down.  This creates a nice, gaiter-like seal.

Note: I was disappointed to find out that Patagonia had discontinued the Mixmaster pants a few years ago.  DON’T WORRY! I contacted Patagonia, and they explained that they have updated the Mixmasters, and are now selling them under the name  Speed Ascent Pants.  I’ll buy a pair and review them as soon as I can wear out my Mixmasters!

Climbing involves one of two states; climbing or belaying, or to put it another way, motion or stillness.  When moving, you work up a sweat.  When you stop moving, you can easily be chilled as the sweat evaporates due to the high efficiency synthetic fabrics most of us use these days.  This necessitates a big warm jacket that can be used over the top of all the existing clothing to help dry the sweat and prevent chilling.

Of course, such a jacket must, by the very nature of its use, be made with synthetic insulation.  Down will not work when used this way.  It will get wet from your sweat.  It will get wet from snow and ice coated gloves that you stuff in the pockets to dry.  Lots of people will be upset by this because synthetics are not as lightweight as down.  I’m a huge fan of going light, but assessments must be made about the suitability of materials for the conditions.

Backpacking, snowshoeing, skiing, etc are all similar activities.  You will move, and work hard, creating sweat.  Then, you stop for rest breaks, for lunch, etc.  During these times it helps to have a warm jacket that can also dry out your wet layers.

In very cold conditions, a pair of synthetic insulated belay pants will be necessary as well.  These items should be carried stuffed in readily accessible locations in your pack.

My choices are the Patagonia DAS parka for the belay jacket and the Patagonia Micro Puff pants for the belay pants.  The fit of both of these is generous without being overly baggy.  It is easy to fit them over all of your other layers while still being able to move.  They withstand the repeated stuffing and general hard use that they get from climbing.  In very cold conditions, I often integrate these pieces into my sleep system to get some extra warmth.

As it turns out, potatoes are a good source of potassium, so I’ve carried crushed up potato chips (they don’t stay whole in a pack anyway), which have plenty of salt.  I would add the crushed up chips to whatever dinner stew I’d make.  I’m not really fond of potato chips, and they aren’t the most convenient form for quick electrolyte replacement for me.

I then tried mixing up table salt with something called “salt substitute”.  Salt substitute is made for people on sodium restricted diets.  It is potassium chloride instead of sodium chloride.  But, salt substitute has a different taste than salt.

Along came “Endurolytes” from Hammer Nutrition.  These are handy pills containing some good stuff like calcium and magnesium along with sodium and potassium.  I much prefer these over other methods as I can more closely control how much I am taking, and I can take it quickly on the move instead of waiting for mealtime.

As a climber, I often tear myself up.  Sharp things like ice axes, ice screws, crampons, and rock can all do some damage if you aren’t careful.  Leukotape patches me up quickly and easily, and stays stuck, even in wet conditions.

I also use it to patch up my feet when I start getting hot spots or blisters.  I’ve had Leukotape stay on my feet for nearly two weeks.  The adhesive is really strong.  I rub some foot powder over the top of the tape to keep it from sticking to my socks.  With Leukotape, I don’t need to use tincture of benzoin anymore.

Leukotape patch on my DAS

The final thing I like about Leukotape is that it works great for patching gear.  Here is my
Patagonia DAS Parka, patched with Leukotape, well used, for over 6 months since I applied that patch.  I patched it in the field, fully expecting it to be a temporary patch until I got home and could properly patch the parka.  As it turns out, I haven’t needed a different patch.

Sealskinz plus REI liner socks equal comfortable feet

First, like any waterproof breathable material, this will make your feet sweat.  So you need to find a way to handle that moisture.  I liberally apply foot powder to my feet, and then wear a very thin liner sock.  I find that this keeps my feet comfortable.  At longer rest breaks, I will take off my shoes or boots, remove the Sealskinz and turn them inside out to dry, and reapply foot  powder to my feet.

Now, they work great for trail running on muddy trails.  They keep the dirt and water away from my feet, and prevent the abrasions and blisters that result.  I don’t need waterproof gaiters, instead, a simple and breathable gaiter is sufficient to keep debris out of my shoes.  One thing to keep in mind, though, is the thickness of the Sealskinz and liner sock combination.  If you want to size your shoes for this, I suggest also finding normal running socks that are just as thick for the times you don’t want to use the Sealskinz.

I also carry them on backpacking/trekking and climbing trips that involve a lot of stream and river crossings.  I will wear the Sealskinz in my normal boots and cross streams and rivers without stopping.  I’ll dry my boots at night, and it keeps my heavy insulating socks nice and dry for the actual climb or cold conditions.  I have not had any blisters while using the Sealskinz in this manner.

Tools of the trade

1. Compass

When selecting a compass for navigating in the backcountry, there are a number of features that are necessary.

Primarily, you absolutely must be able to accurately shoot an azimuth.  I prefer mirror compasses for this purpose.  If you look at the geologist’s transit, it has a mirror sighting mechanism.  I’ve found that I can shoot consistent azimuths with a mirrored compass.

Second, if, like me, you travel internationally, you absolutely want a specialized type of compass that can be used anywhere in the world.  Different regions in the world have magnetic fields that vary and require compasses tuned to that area.  Buying a global compass means you only buy one compass and it works anywhere.

Third, adjustable declination is a very good feature.  You can compute declination each time in your head, if you want, but having a compass that you can tune to the exact declination means one less thing you have to worry about when you are focusing on everything else.

Fourth, the various map scales that are found on baseplate compasses are handy, but I tend to carry a separate protractor.  USGS maps are often 1:24,000, and many compasses include a scale for that.

Fifth, I like having inclinometers in my compass.  I often try to get a good idea of slope from maps beforehand, but having that inclinometer to measure and verify is comforting in avalanche territory.

My personal choice for a compass is the MC-2G IN GLOBAL from Suunto.  It has all the features I discussed.

2. Altimeter

Altimeters are another navigational tool for the mountains.  Often, when you get into the mountains you want, you can easily sight a few surrounding peaks and know that you are in the right area consistently.  However, when ascending or descending, you’ll want to know the altitude of landmarks that tell you when to look for a pass, when to look for a trail, when to look for a rappel, or a cave, etc.

In CONUS, there are options for reasonably priced altimeters because they do not need to measure to extremely high altitudes.

My choice for CONUS is the Brunton ADC Ridge Mechanical Altimeter because I tend to wear cheap watches without altimeter features while climbing. I have a bad habit of breaking my watches.

3. Map protractors

Protractors are used for plotting points and measuring distances on your maps.  You can often use a baseplate compass for this purpose, however when traveling internationally, you may be dealing with some very different map scales.  I suggest having a variety of protractors for different scales.

My choice for CONUS, because it has a variety of handy tools on it is the Brunton Quad Tool Map Measurer.  Other options are available at military surplus stores.

4. Markers / Pens

I use a variety of pens and markers for map marking purposes.

First, for field use, I highly recommend having a pen that has waterproof ink.  This is used for map marking, writing in journals, taking notes when performing first aid, etc.  A good pen is an essential piece of gear.  I use a Fisher Pens Bullet Space Pen.

For drawing UTM grids on maps, I like Pigma Micron pens.  They allow me to draw very fine lines of the same weight as the existing map markings.

For marking waterproofed maps, I use a variety of colors of Staedtler Lumocolor permanent markers.   For example, I may mark locations of basecamp, caches, etc.

5. Waterproof Notebook

A good waterproof notebook is an essential.  When you navigate off trail, you’ll want to keep notes about distances, times, locations, etc.  You will want to document whether water is readily available, any problems you may face reversing a route, etc.  This is especially true if you plan on returning to the area in the future.  The more detailed the notes, the better.

I like a small notebook without a spiral binding.  Rite in the Rain All Weather Journal Field-flex Pocket (3 1/2″ X 5″) is one of my favorites.

Watch for navigational tools of the trade part 2 next week.